Friday: map & interesting data
Total climbing: 324 m
Total time: 01:51:30
8 mile cycle in, 2h from 16.20 to 18.20 – average 4.3 mph
In May last year, we were contemplating the spectacular view of Ben Alder in the sun when we came up with a plan:
“Why don’t we do this next year in the winter?”
By “this” we meant wild camping. It didn’t feel like such a crazy idea while sitting by the river in a glorious afternoon.
In the end, rather than risking a freezing winter camping trip, we settled for the spring.
Little did we know that the last weekend in March would turn out to be positively glacial. And thoroughly worth the trip.
Arriving at Dalwhinnie
We left Edinburgh by the 13.36 train to Inverness, with four panniers, two rucksacks, bar bags, and the large new bag we’d got for the extras.
Our destination was Dalwhinnie, in the Cairngorms National Park, one of the coldest places in Scotland.
As it turned out, it was Easter Friday, so the train was packed. But we had a jolly ride with all kinds of interesting characters getting on and off the train.
In contrast, at Dalwhinnie station there wasn’t a soul, as usual.
16.02 – Simon transporting the bikes
After faffing about for a bit, we left the station and headed for Loch Pattack. This time I didn’t take any pictures of the route, partly because I already had last year’s, and partly because I didn’t fancy taking my gloves off in the freezing cold.
We cycled past a gloomy Loch Ericht, quite a contrast with what we’d see on Sunday.
After we left the road we saw a large deer herd. From what I remember, they were all stags. Dozens of them. It was an imposing view, but not enough to get icy fingers. So we rode on.
And then we came across this cute guy.
18.02 – Simon with a super friendly pony
There were actually two of them: a white one, and this most friendly of ponies. They then followed us for a while.
Setting up camp
When we arrived at Loch Pattack, we looked for a camping spot, put up the tent, inflated the mattresses, went to get water, and cooked on the Trangia, all as quickly as we could to beat the biting cold.
And then we had Simon’s dinner. You really can put up with anything if you know those dinners are on the horizon.
19.46 – Simon’s gourmet pasta & chorizo dinner
We knew we’d be facing a freezing night, that’s why we’d brought just about all our gear.
And we wore all of it: extra thick socks with foot warmers, thermal tights, a second pair of tights, Craft top, fleece, down jacket, gloves, hand warmers, buff and hat.
Plus, I had a silk liner inside my sleeping bag. Even then, it was just warm enough.
I looked, and felt, like a mummy.
Saturday: map & interesting data
Total climbing: 651 m
Total time: 07:46:47
11 mile walk, 7h50 from 08.50 to 16.40 – average 1.4 mph
When we got up on Saturday, the ground was white and it was snowing. It’d snow on and off throughout the morning.
Preparing for the big walk
Simon made a hot breakfast. The miso was great, and so was the rehydrated porridge with strawberries.
7.29 – Simon concocting breakfast
It really was as cold as it looks in the picture. Even the bikes seemed to think so, in spite of being hidden under their new cover.
They were quite frozen.
7.56 – Simon preparing to venture out
After putting on everything we’d need for the day, we left the camp on foot.
Off we go
We crossed this splendid suspension bridge, which we first saw last year. This time it seemed to have some missing planks, and there was plenty of grass attached to the bottom.
I suspect the river runs quite a bit higher when the snow melts.
8.52 – Maria crossing the frozen suspension bridge *
The plan for the day was to climb Carn Dearg (1034m), a Munro.
Carn Dearg is quite a challenging Munro, and not the best choice for a frosty day.
So, after an hour of treading through heather and snow, it was obvious a change of plan was needed.
10.00 – Simon replanning our day
The new plan
After studying the map, Simon decided we’d go in the direction of Beinn Bheòil (1019m), another Munro.
Whether we’d get to the top or not depended on the weather, the ground, and mostly us.
10.20 – Looking back at Loch Pattack
We walked towards the Culra bothy and there we stopped for a short break. By the side entrance we shared a tin of fairly edible ham. Then we lingered around for a few minutes, in spite of the asbestos.
A few years ago someone had the great idea of checking whether there was asbestos in the bothy. They cut into the wall plaster and by doing so the asbestos was exposed.
So now no one can use what would otherwise be a splendiferous bothy. So much for health and safety.
10.44 – The Culra bothy & Ben Alder behind it
Last year there were a number of tents around the bothy, and we saw a good dozen walkers on the paths.
This time it was just us and a solitary guy who’d put up his one-man tent next to the bothy.
We went back on the path and headed for Beinn Bheòil. That’s actually the same path we took last year in May when we climbed Ben Alder.
It looked strangely different in the snow.
11.58 – Beinn Bheòil, Ben Alder & Sgòr Iutharn
A city walker’s lunch
Here we stopped for lunch. We had soup; and shared the tongue, blue cheese, and pâté sandwiches we’d brought from Edinburgh. One of my favourite trios.
Only, instead of my pâté half I had a chunk of cherry cake. A wise pick.
12.27 – Loch Pattack (left) & Loch Ericht (right)
We pressed on and after a short while we found ourselves walking on fluffy, powdery snow.
Soon we had Ben Alder in front of us. Ben Alder is the Munro we climbed last year when we camped in this part of the world.
But that May day there was a lot of fog, some scrambling, and no snow.
13.08 – Simon with Ben Alder in the distance
As we made the long approach to Beinn Bheòil the snow got deeper, and it was also melting.
We debated whether to continue. By now we were short for time, and we were also unhappy about the melting snow on the ridge. The summit looked so close, and yet so far.
14.06 – The long climb along the Beinn Bheòil ridge
Sadly, we chose to turn back. But not before agreeing to come back in the autumn.
I can settle for that.
14.07 – Ben Alder, quite different from last year
Along the stream
We went back the same way we came, along the beautiful Allt a’ Bhealaich Dhuibh.
14.46 – The Allt a’ Bhealaich Dhuibh & Sgòr Iutharn
By the Allt, we filled up the bottles, and walked back to the tent.
15.30 – Getting freezing water from the Allt a’ Bhealaich Dhuibh
Beinn Bheòil means “Hill of the Mouth” in Gaelic. Another translation I’ve found is “Front Hill”. And this is how you pronounce it: /binˠ’vjɔ:əl/.
If you thought English pronunciation was weird, just wait for Gaelic.
15.54 – Beinn Bheòil, far left, in the distance
There’s quite a bit of peat in this area. Near our camp we saw these tree roots that seemed frozen in time.
16.16 – Tree roots preserved in the peat
Soon after we got back to the tent, Simon cooked our second Trangia dinner: rice and sausage flavoured with chicken soup.
It was a lot tastier than it sounds. Perhaps an exotic name would do it more justice, something like: “arroz con butifarra a la escocesa”.
18.16 – Our camp site & Ben Alder in the centre
After dinner we went for a walk to the suspension bridge. By now, the frost was gone. In fact, the sun had started to come out.
18.55 – Back at the suspension bridge
According to the weather forecast, we were going to have a sunny evening, and we were not let down.
19.41 – Loch Pattack in the evening sun
Sunday: map & interesting data
Total climbing: 275 m
Total time: 01:41:31
8 mile cycle out, 1h40 from 09.20 to 11.00 – average 4.7 mph – quite a fast pace cycle, with minimal breaks
Sunday, Easter Sunday, brought an entirely different scene.
Nature’s gift
After a cloudless night, we woke up to a frozen Loch Pattack. It was a beautifully peaceful sight.
The ground was frozen, the bikes were frozen, the tent was covered in frost, and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky.
6.35 – Loch Pattack covered in ice *
Instead, there was a bright full moon.
Like that time when we camped in the southern tip of Loch Ericht.
We’d recently bought the tent, and we thought we’d just try it for a couple of trips and then sell it to some other dreamer.
But, when we got out of the tent in the morning, there it was, the full moon, shining down on Loch Ericht. We never could get rid of the tent after that.
6.37 – The full moon shining on Loch Pattack *
After breakfast, we went to the suspension bridge to get water, and found a semi-frozen river. It looked surreal.
7.34 – Ice terraces
It was hard to believe what Loch Pattack had looked like only 24 hours before.
8.21 (Saturday) & 8.56 (Sunday) – Loch Pattack before & after
As we soon would find out, Loch Ericht looked even more spectacular.
Back to Dalwhinnie station
We cycled back the same way we came, past the Lodge, and along a wonderfully still Loch Ericht.
Will it be like this when we come back in the autumn?
10.01 – Loch Ericht in glorious sunshine
An hour later we got back to the station. I guess we looked like we were carrying all our worldly possessions with us.
10.59 – Maria, the mule, back in Dalwhinnie *
It was pleasant in the sun, but still fairly cool in the shade. We parked the bikes and walked around the ghostly station to stay warm.
It’s because of being quiet and remote that Dalwhinnie has a unique place in history.
11.00 – Back at Dalwhinnie station
We couldn’t believe we’d only been away for 48 hours. We’d seen so much, and done so much.
It was another unforgettable adventure.
I took all the photos with the Panasonic.
* Simon took these photos.