This was a Wednesday to Saturday trip to Blair Atholl, in Perthsihre (Scotland).
Arriving at Blair Atholl
We got there by train with Liath and Mounty, our bikes, on Wednesday just before 12.30pm.
The lodge was warm, comfortable and well equipped. It was also very close to the other lodges we’ve stayed at in the area.
The river Tilt from our lodge
The lodge has two bedrooms, one en-suite, and a separate bathroom with a nice bath.
The river Tilt from our lodge
The original plan for this trip was to camp in Glen # on Thursday night. It was going to be our first ever winter camping experience.
Alas, the weather forecast was for quite a bit of rain. Plus, there had been a lot snow in the previous weeks.
Ducks by the river Tilt
Neither of us fancied having a miserable time, so we wisely left the tent at home.
Our lodge from the river Tilt bridge
After stocking up at the local shop, we went for a walk to Blair Castle. We walked past the church and the friendly ducks, and went into the Castle grounds.
Blair Atholl church (Church of Scotland)
On the Blair Castle grounds
The main avenue is lined with some magnificent lime trees in perfect formation. Apparently they were planted in 1746.
The main avenue leading to Blair Castle
Blair Castle dates mostly from the 16th century, although much of it has been altered over the years.
We’ve been to Blair Atholl a good dozen times, but have never been inside the Castle.
That’s because it only opens to the public between Easter and late October, when we’re too busy camping and pedalling down the glens.
Blair Castle in a late winter afternoon
On this visit we went into the Hercules Garden. It looked more autumnal than wintry with all those dead leaves flying around a pensive Hercules.
This garden, like Diana’s Grove a bit further down, was laid out in the first half of the 18th century.
Statue of Hercules on the Blair Castle grounds
Then we returned to the lodge along the private road. No one seemed to mind our trespassing.
Buildings adjacent to Blair Castle
Back at the lodge we made our now famous pasta bake, a treat we reserve for those adventure trips.
For dessert we had ginger cake and custard, another dainty dish.
Our superb pasta bake
Thursday – Cycling towards Beinn a’ Chait: map & data
Total climbing: 253 m
Total time: 00:56:49
4.9 mile cycle, 0h55 from 08.40 to 09.35 – average 5.2 mph
A failed attempt to climb Beinn a’ Chait
On Thursday we left the lodge by 8.30am on the bikes.
We rode through Old Bridge of Tilt and Old Blair, and then past the Blairuachdar farm, a estate farm.
The idea was to head in the direction of Beinn a’ Chait, an unclassified hill we’d climbed a couple of times before.
The big plan was to tramp around in the snowshoes we had bought a couple of weeks before. We got them soon after getting back from our spectacular week in Bridge of Orchy.
8.38 – Simon carrying the snowshoes, etc.
Unfortunately, the weather had other plans for us.
It was pretty windy when we set off, and after about 1/2 mile it got worse. There were broken branches on the road, so we decided to turn back.
We weren’t going to risk one of those falling on our heads.
9.09 – Branches broken by the high wind
At the top of Cairn Gorm the wind forecast was for 75mph. No wonder it was so blustery where we were.
We’d have to come up with an alternative plan.
9.23 – Hay bales wrapped in unromantic polythene
Walking to the Falls of Bruar: map & data
Total climbing: 898 m
Total time: 05:37:46
10.4 mile walk, 5h40 from 11.55 to 17.30 – average 1.8 mph (including time in the shop)
Walking to the Falls of Bruar
We left the lodge once again, this time on foot at about noon.
The new plan was to walk to the Falls of Bruar, which are about 5 miles from Blair Atholl. From there we’d go to the House of Bruar.
11.54 – Crows, and more crows
We walked to Blair Castle along the main avenue, like the day before.
12.07 – One day I’m gonna drive a wee tractor
We strolled past the Castle and Diane’s Grove, which was closed due to the high winds. But the temperature was surprisingly pleasant.
12.11 – Bridge on the Blair Castle grounds
We passed the pony trekking place and continued on the path.
Then we turned left and walked down the lane, leaving the horse trials on the left.
Soon we were surrounded by some very tall trees that were swinging in the wind, like reeds.
12.24 – A lofty tree
There was no one else on the path. That’s the advantage of being an all-weather walker: it’s just Nature and you.
There were forestry plantations and a variety of awesome trees, all mixed up.
12.44 – Simon ignoring the wind
We saw some buzzards flying around, and earlier that morning Simon had seen a red squirrel on the decking.
This part of Scotland has managed to keep the grey squirrels at bay.
12.50 – Logs hoping for an afterlife
On a mossy rock by the road, we had lunch: ham, pâté and cheese sandwiches. Plus some excellent chai with ginger cake. It was most enjoyable.
We left our lunch spot and headed for the Falls of Bruar.
13.16 – View from our lunch spot
At the Falls of Bruar
As you get there, this is the first waterfall you see.
13.53 – The Falls of Bruar
It’s the tallest but, in my opinion, not the most dramatic one. What caught my imagination were the smaller waterfalls trapped in the gorges.
14.02 – The Lower Bridge
And the deep dark pools hiding secret worlds inside them.
14.06 – A smaller waterfall & pool
When the Scottish poet Robert Burns visited the Falls of Bruar in 1787 the scenery was quite different.
Even though the falls and gorges were as beautiful as they are today, there were no trees or bushes.
This lack of greenery inspired Burns to write The Humble Petition Of Bruar Water. Here’s an extract from the poem:
Would then my noble master please
To grant my highest wishes,
He’ll shade my banks wi’ tow’ring trees,
And bonie spreading bushes.
Delighted doubly then, my lord,
You’ll wander on my banks,
And listen mony a grateful bird
Return you tuneful thanks.
14.12 – The Lower Bridge from the viewing platform
In 1796 the 4th Duke of Atholl, the landowner, created the landscape we see today. The duke would later be known as Planter John.
On a winter day the place feels haunted, with the incessant noise from the torrents and the wind howling through the trees.
From the Falls of Bruar we walked to the House of Bruar, on the other side of the Railway Bridge.
14.18 – The Railway Bridge & pedestrian tunnel
At the House of Bruar
The House of Bruar isn’t the stately home that its name may suggest, but rather a huge fancy shop with all things Scottish.
We saw fishing gear, shortbread, tartan, marmalade, whisky, bird feed, dozens of other products, and honey.
14.28 – A free lunch at the House of Bruar
Plenty of honey.
14.47 – Honey galore!
We bought a jar and were about to venture out when the skies opened.
According to the rain radar, there was a large band of rain right above us. So we put our waterproof trousers on, left the cozy shop, and went back to the lodge the same way we came.
Only faster.
15.56 – Which trees are those?
The wind seemed to have dropped somewhat, but the rain was relentless.
15.57 – A Scots pine, probably
As we walked past the majestic red deer, they posed for our photos. At least the stag did.
16.55 – The Blair Castle Red Deer Park
Blair Castle was looking sombre and mysterious in the afternoon rain. I wonder which wondrous tales it hides.
16.56 – A nostalgic Blair Castle
By the time we got back to the lodge our jackets were soaking wet, and I looked like a drowned rat in my soggy hat.
For dinner we had part two of the pasta bake we’d make the day before.
It was predictably yummy.
I took all the photos with the Panasonic.