East Linton to Haddington via Hailes Castle: map & data
Total climbing: 681 m
Total time: 05:50:43
11.5 mile walk, 5h50 from 10.30 to 16.20 – average 2 mph (plus 2 miles near home)
– “Let’s test our new boots in East Lothian before going to France”, said Simon.
That was one of the reasons why we took the X7 bus to Dunbar and got off at East Linton.
It was yet another sunny day in this sunniest of springs, and our last adventure before travelling to Brittany, in NW France.
Arriving in East Linton
The plan was to walk from East Linton to Haddington, a town about 6 miles away on a straight line, but somewhat further if you follow our route.
We got off at the edge of East Linton and the first thing we did was go into the Knowes Farm shop. It was a superb discovery.
10.39 – At the Knowes Farm shop
Simon bought himself a most interesting pie. Luckily, we both managed to escape the terribly tempting cakes and other goodies.
10.48 – Entertaining the friendly Knowes Farm shop chickens
We walked down to the river Tyne and joined the path that runs along it. Our first destination was Hailes Castle.
On the way, we stopped to take some photos and observe the bees, while Simon polished off his “breakfast pie”.
The so called “breakfast pie” turned out to be exactly that: sausage, bacon, black pudding, egg, mushroom and tomato, all wrapped up in pastry, and the size of a fist.
You learn something new every day.
11.05 – The path along the river Tyne
We continued on the path and eventually arrived at this uninspiring but sturdy footbridge.
11.33 – Footbridge to Hailes Castle
As you get off the bridge, you see this bossy sign. I suspect it was put there by the salmon themselves.
11.37 – An inspirational sign
At Hailes Castle
Soon afterwards we arrived at Hailes Castle for a brief history lesson. Sadly, it’s now in ruins, but it’s part of Scotland’s history.
In 1548, Lord Grey of Wilton wrote this about the imposing house he saw:
“The house is … of suche excellent bewtie within as I have seldom sene any in Englande except the Kinges Majesties and of verie good strengthe.” [sic]
I’m not sure I’d like to hand over this blog to Lord Grey, but you have to admire his spelling.
11.48 – Hailes Castle, the north range
The original walls date back to the early 1200s. This once commanding castle belonged first to the Gourlays and then to the Hepburns, two noble families.
In 1567 Mary Queen of Scots stayed here before her marriage to Lord Bothwell. A century later, in 1650, Oliver Cromwell’s troops attacked it and severely damaged it.
In 1700 it was bought by a new family, the Dalrymples, but they let it run down and moved to a new home closer to Edinburgh. The now not-so-new home is called Newhailes and is well worth a visit.
11.49 – Hailes Castle, the east tower
After leaving the castle, we marched on to Traprain Law, an unclassified hill just 221m high.
12.04 – Heading to Traprain Law
With all the blazing sun we’d had in May and June the vegetation had grown like mad. At times it felt like we could do with a machete to get through.
12.18 – Simon walking like an explorer
On our way to Traprain Law
And there it was, Traprain Law. It may look more like a lump than a hill, but it’s got its own history. Apparently, there’s evidence of burials on it from around 1500BC.
12.28 – The strangely handsome Traprain Law
Before going up, we went into a nearby farm to see this awesome standing stone we’d spotted on the map.
Apparently it was moved here from another location, but I haven’t been able to pin it down.
12.31 – A standing stone (a.k.a menhir)
From the standing stone, we retraced our steps, headed for Traprain Law, and soon we were climbing it.
Traprain Law starts off gently but the path soon gets fairly steep. It’s not long, though. It only takes twenty minutes to get to the top.
13.09 – Climbing up Traprain Law
The visibility was OK, but not spectacular. From the summit we could see East Linton, the town we’d arrived in on the bus.
In the distance, to the left of the photo, is North Berwick Law, which we climbed last year in May.
Lunch at the top of Traprain Law
Having lunch at the top of a hill is often a misguided idea. You usually end up fighting the wind and half frozen.
But, since there wasn’t even the slightest breeze, we sat on the rocks and ate our pâté sandwiches and cherry cake. I did, anyway. After his humongous breakfast pie, Simon said he had no room for cake.
I didn’t mind.
13.14 – View of East Linton from the summit
On the way down we took a slightly different route and bumped into a couple of ponies that were minding their own business.
Those Exmoor ponies are one of the most attractive things about Traprain Law. They were brought to the hill a few years ago.
They’re not just a herd of beautiful wild animals, they’ve also got an important job to do on the hill: grazing.
It’s all part of a conservation scheme to preserve the quality of the grassland and encourage wild flowers to grow. The ponies seem to be doing their job admirably.
13.48 – A wild pony running for his life
Back at Hailes Castle
Further down, we retraced our steps and walked back to the path by the river Tyne.
Soon we were back at the footbridge, and waved goodbye to Hailes Castle, from the other side of the river.
14.27 – Hailes Castle seen from the river Tyne
The weather forecast had been for a lot of sun, no rain, and little wind. And that’s just what we got.
The lack of wind made it pretty warm at times. So, whenever we could, we would take off our sun hats and tried to imagine there was a breeze.
14.35 – Back on the path along the river Tyne
There are many farms in this part of East Lothian, where it rains quite a bit less than many would assume.
That’s why it’s not uncommon to see water being sucked out of the river for irrigation.
14.41 – A water irrigation pump
On our way to Haddington
Our final destination was Haddington, the pretty East Lothian town. We were there earlier this year when Simon got his new bike.
14.52 – Heading to Haddington
We were happily tramping along when we suddenly spotted this magnificent mushroom specimen.
There were plenty others, but none as enormous as this.
15.26 – Dinner!!! (but not for us)
Sometimes I think there’s an unforgivable number of photos of bridges on this blog.
But then, they’re so cute. How could I resist this one?
In case you’re curious, it’s the Abbey Bridge, built in the early 16th century and 131ft long.
15.49 – Abbey Bridge, just outside Haddington
We continued on the path along the river Tyne and arrived in Haddington, thirsty, but not exhausted.
16.22 – Haddington High Street
This time we didn’t linger around for too long. Just enough to admire the goat on the Mercat Cross.
In Scotland, mercat crosses date back several centuries, and indicate that a place was granted the right to hold a regular market or fair.
I learnt that today.
16.22 – The Mercat Cross in Haddington High Street
After buying water, we jumped on the X7, the express bus back to Edinburgh.
You don’t get much of a view from the motorway, but you’re home in twenty minutes.
It’s hard to believe that those paths, hills, stones, giant mushrooms and wild ponies are all so close to the big city.
By the way, our boots behaved splendidly. Now, we’re ready to conquer France.
I took all the photos with the Panasonic.