Day 2 on the GR34: map & data
Total climbing: 736 m
Total time: 06:55:50
Average speed 1.6 mph, including stopping for lunch.
Day 2 of our walking holiday started off with a dramatic sky.
Leaving Beuzec-Cap-Sizun
The weather forecast was for light rain on and off most of the day, and that’s what we got. It was quite a contrast with Day 1 of our walking holiday.
9.49 – Walking back to Beuzec-Cap-Sizun
After a croissant breakfast, we left the B&B and walked back to the village. We said goodbye to the more-French-than-Irish pub, and headed for the D7 road.
9.52 – Mac Laughlin’s, our dinner pub
Like the day before, we were going to walk partly on the GR34 coast path, and partly inland.
Walking through villages always brings you some unexpected surprises, like this wonderful street name. Pourquoi pas – Why not.
10.07 – Why not indeed?
This is a very quiet part of the world, so even the tarmac road had barely any traffic.
But it did have some cool tractors. This one was almost as cute as my Thorn bike.
10.36 – Another cool French toy
War memorials are ever-present in Brittany. They celebrate the great contribution made by Bretons in both wars.
10.36 – WWII memorial near Lesven
We then walked through a farm that had got pretty muddy with the overnight rain. The cows didn’t seem to mind, though.
10.40 – A picturesque but somewhat derelict tank
Everything was quiet. There was no road or construction noise, and there was hardly anyone on the paths. That made the landscape look even more nostalgic.
10.54 – On our way to the GR34 path
We headed for the coast and rejoined the Grande Randonnée 34 here.
Like the day before, we walked on the narrow path next to the cliffs. The GR34 was well signposted with the white and red lines we’d become accustomed to by now.
11.00 – Rejoining the GR34 at the Plage de Lesven
It was the same rugged coast as the day before, but it looked more dramatic behind the thin fog.
In the distance, we could hear the thunderstorms. Alas, we never got to see any lighting.
11.28 – Looking back at the Pointe de Lesven
The temperature was most pleasant, unlike the previous day which had been an unexpected scorcher. Still, we put on the dreaded sun cream, just in case.
However, we were glad we hadn’t got the wind that’s so common in this part of the world. Walking on that ridge when the wind is pushing you towards the cliffs would be too exciting.
12.34 – Looking back at the Rocher du Danou
This part of the Brittany coast is a bird reserve. You can see colonies of fulmars, guillemots, a variety of gulls, shags, choughs, ravens, peregrines, and many more.
I have to confess, I was glad the weather had turned during the night and we were now seeing a different Brittany. The day before everything had been bathed in a beautiful summer light, but today it felt like we were walking in a dream world.
13.01 – The Cap Sizun Bird Reserve
By now we were somewhat wet. The temperature was pleasant, but we’d kill for some shelter. And suddenly, there it was, a humble Breton bothy.
You couldn’t make it up.
Inside the bothy there was information about the local flora, the bird colonies, and also about Félix Coquet, the local man who built Ti Félix, this house.
Apparently, Félix Coquet “was looking for peace and serenity, to get some distance from his wife whose character seemed to be difficult”. I’ve translated that from the board hanging inside the bothy.
We took off some of our wet clothes and hung them up to dry. Then, we had lunch. Merci, M. Croquet.
13.10 – Ti Félix, an unexpected & most welcome bothy
Off we went, back on to the GR34.
15.14 – Pors Loëdec, at the Pointe de Penharn
When we were planning this trip, we’d assumed we’d meet other people doing the same route, are least some, but we were on our own. It was just us, the birds, and some boats in the distance.
The ins and outs of the craggy coast offer great shelter to boats, so there are tiny ports in the most unexpected places. Like this one.
15.21 – Another view of Pors Loëdec
When we reached the Pointe de Penharn, we left the GR34 and took the path to Lanvrel, a hamlet half a mile from the coast.
15.34 – Heading inland from the Pointe de Penharn
Why do I love those relics so much?
16.01 – A superb vintage vehicle
And I’m also a sucker for picturesque boats. The older, the better.
16.02 – Yet another boat that took my fancy
We pressed on and went through other hamlets and villages, like Kergroas and Mescran.
Our B$B was near a place called Cléden-Cap-Sizun. We’d booked two en-suite rooms, and our host had offered to cook dinner for us.
16.13 – The village of Mescran
We had a great evening, Mme Buirette, Simon and I.
She was a most interesting character, and I had the chance to practise my French once again.
The next day, stage 3 of our walking holiday, would take us to the spectacular Pointe du Raz.
I took all the photos with the Panasonic.